I decided to use the wired connection for the Hue Bridge instead of for our main television set. Both are typically connected directly to a 4K television set for streaming. My Google WiFi mesh network access points only have one ethernet port to spare each. Setting up the Hue Bridge requires power and an ethernet connection, which is another reason I’ve stayed from Hue.
Since the Play and Synch products are so similar, this is an easy way to add everything you need to a Sync Box. I found a discounted Philips Hue Play Starter Kit for $130 at Best Buy, which included the Hue Bridge and a pair of Hue Light Bars. However, you do need a Hue Bridge and Hue lights for the Sync Box to do anything. It does require an electrical outlet as well, but as far as general setup, it’s basically plug-and-play. The box itself has 4 HDMI inputs and a single HDMI output, which connects to your television. The Sync Box removes a computer from the equation by using hardware.
#PHILIPS HUE SYNC APP SOFTWARE#
The Play uses software for your PC or Mac to synchronize Hue colored lights with on-screen content. There’s a key difference though and it’s the reason I never considered the Play option. Both sync with audio or video content on your television or computer monitor. If you’re not familiar with the Sync Box, it’s actually quite similar to an older product, the Philips Hue Play. So much so that Stacey bought me an early Christmas present and I’ve been happily using the Hue Sync Box for the past week. But when I saw the $230 Philips Hue Sync Box that became available in October, I was intrigued. Instead, I’d rather have a single hub at most to be the brains of my smart home. The main reason is that I haven’t wanted numerous bridges and hubs around the house. Google Stadia gaming with the Hue Sync and Light Barsįor as long as I’ve been writing here and podcasting with Stacey, I’ve generally stayed away from Philips Hue products.